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May 13, 2013

Acclimatizing at Camp 3



By Outside Online
May 13, 2013

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Looking down from c 3

Tomorrow we are moving up on our summit 'rotation' to attempt the summit of Everest & Lhotse (around May 18-20).

The weather is looking good, the routes up both summits are now in good shape & fixed.

You can also check out my own blog with real time tracking in google earth.

Ladder crossing 1
Garrett Madison

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Related Topics: Climbing · Everest

Climbers On the Lhotse Face



By Outside Online
May 13, 2013

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Climber on lhotse face

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Related Topics: Climbing · Everest

Climbers On the Lhotse Face



By Outside Online
May 13, 2013

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Climber on lhotse faceAn image of climbers moving up the Lhotse Face.

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Related Topics: Climbing · Everest

Sherpas Top Out On Everest



By Outside Online
May 13, 2013

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Climbers in broken ice

Today the Sherpa fixing team reached the summit of Everest! Fourteen Sherpas from 8 different teams worked together installing new anchors and fixed lines.  Two Sherpas from Alpine Ascents, Kami Rita and Fur Kancha Sherpa contributed to the work, summitted, and are now descending down to Camp 2

Garrett Madison

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Related Topics: Climbing · Everest

Moving Up to Camp 4



By Outside Online
May 13, 2013

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Oxygen

Today Sherpas from several teams are working on fixing the route from Camp 4 (the South Col) to the Balcony. Tomorrow they hope to complete the route from the Balcony to the Summit. Winds look reasonable the next few days so after the 10th I imagine some teams will be making their attempts from Camp 4, there is a good period of low winds from the 11th to the 13th currently.

Garrett Madison 


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Related Topics: Climbing · Everest

May 01, 2013

Drones and Choppers at Base Camp?



By Outside Online
May 01, 2013

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Heli in base camp

APRIL 26
This morning I awoke at 7:20 a.m. to the rotors of the latest model Eurocopter B3 hovering above my tent as it prepared to land 50 yards away to resupply a neighboring camp. I thought to myself, this is getting a little surreal, as I walked from my personal tent to our dining tent for my morning cup of coffee. As I strolled over the rocky moraine of our base camp with java on my mind, I heard what sounded like a swarm of angry mosquitos approaching, and then saw the small 6 rotor drones flying about filming the tents of our camp below. I first saw this drone on the trek in at Phakding when its Chinese owners were staying in the same lodge as us, and they explained to me that the contraption they would disassemble and carry by hand cost well over $100,000.

Over the last few years, as the Eurocopter B3 proved very adept at flying at high altitudes, it became a popular way for climbers to quickly exit locations such as Everest base camp (17,500’), in the event of an injury or illness that was life threatening. But of course it also allowed for healthy climbers to shell out a few thousand bucks and avoid the mult-day trek from base camp to Lukla and then fly out on a twin otter from the world’s most dangerous runway. Last year a few of my climbers flew out of Base Camp after a successful climb by helicopter to Kathmandu and were home in Dubai that same day.

These helicopters have proved very efficient at evacuating injured or ill climbers, but they also have opened up a new dimension of commerce on 8000-meter peaks that previously did not exist. Watching this burgeoning industry evolve with little to no regulation is exciting. The established helipad just below Base Camp that was supposed to be reserved for medical evacuations is regularly used for non- emergency flights. Daily sightseeing tours with tourists from Kathmandu hover over Base Camp just a few hundred meters off the deck. And the Nepali team next to ours recently built their own helipad so that they could easily resupply their camp with fresh food and ferry members in and out of camp regularly. When the helicopter lands, people walk around the impressive machine and snap photos or shoot movie clips to upload to their Facebook pages. Back home in the U.S. when I have been around helicopters the pilot and other crews are militant about keeping people away from the tail rotors that would chop a person apart. But not here in Nepal, where helicopter flights mean thousands of dollars in cash changing hands. There are now 4 commercial helicopter companies here competing for passengers' dollars, and the prices for flights varies widely.

Having traveled halfway around the world and trekked 2 weeks to reach Everest Base Camp, I am a little disappointed that I awake to the deafening roar of thumping rotors above my tent and then the buzz of a mini drone helicopter as I enjoy my morning coffee and the views of Everest, Nuptse, & Pumori (peaks surrounding Base Camp). But then again, this is not about solitude in nature: there are over a thousand people in camp, and those aiming to climb to the top of the highest mountain in the world have brought with them satellite modems to access the internet, movie projectors to watch films in the evenings (and generators to keep those projectors going well after dark), and even gourmet food and western chefs to satisfy their palates. This is about going big, reaching the highest point on earth, and having a great time along the way.

Chef Alexandra catching a few rays amongst the Sherpa


Do I resent this development of Base Camp into a mini city, with high-tech aircraft,  high-speed Wi-Fi, eggs benedict, carpeted leisure tents with propane heaters, etc.? Honestly I think it is all pretty nice considering I am "on the job." If I were to break my leg up on the Lhotse Face, I would prefer the helicopter ride from the base of the face at 22,000’ direct to Kathmandu rather than be carried down the Western CWM and the Khumbu Icefall on the backs of Sherpas, then strapped to a Yak in base camp for the multi day ride down to Lukla. And the luxuries I have access to in my camp such as Wi-Fi, our lovely and skilled chef Alexandra … these amenities I prefer to the hundreds of mountain climbing expeditions where I cooked instant oatmeal for my clients and had zero communication with the outside world. Considering I am working as I guide clients to the top of the world, I might as well ask for a base camp masseuse next year to take care of us poor climbers between our forays up the mountain.

—Garrett Madison

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Related Topics: Everest

Everest 2013: The Beginning



By Outside Online
May 01, 2013

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C 1 in the snow

APRIL 25
I just got back to Everest Base Camp after spending 5 nights up on the mountain. On April 20, we climbed up through the Khumbu Icefall to Camp I.  We departed our base camp at 4 a.m. and arrived at Camp I around 10 a.m. and the snow had already started that day, continuing for the next 2 days. On April 21,we elected to take a rest day at Camp
I and fortify camp in case of more snow, which we had that night. We awoke to about 3 feet of total snow accumulation the morning of April 22 and decided that, instead of moving up to Camp II as planned, we should remain in camp and dig our tents out. Only a few Sherpas came down from Camp II that day on their way to base camp, so we were very content to sit tight and enjoy our winter camping experience.

On April 23, we moved up to Camp II and spent 2 nights acclimatizing. The weather was very nice, light winds and sunny mornings/afternoons. We hiked up a scree slope next to the West Ridge a few hundred feet for acclimatization and had a great view of the Lhotse Face, which now has a lot more snow on it than before the storm.  I think the route on the Lhotse face will be great for climbing this season, as well as the Lhotse couloir route to the summit of Lhotse.

Today, 2 of our Sherpas (Fur Kancha & Karma Sarki) arrived at Camp II to join Sherpas from other companies to begin the route fixing of the Lhotse Face. I am hoping that 2 days of fixing work (April 26 & 27) will allow them enough time to complete the route up to Camp III. The weather looks good for the next few days, so hopefully they can complete this work and then continue fixing up to the South Col and complete that work by April 30.

Fixing to the South Col early means that the summit fixing work can commence sooner rather than later and hopefully allow for many teams to attempt their summit bids when periods of calm winds open up in early- to mid-May. This would be great as it would spread out the many climbers over several summit weather windows and allow for less crowded summit days, hopefully avoiding the debacle of last year when only 2 summit window's existed after the route had been fixed.

There are some real concerns with climbers on the mountain that do not seem well organized. Today on our descent we encountered a new team called "Rowaling Expeditions" that had about a dozen members jugging the fixed line very close together, and clogging the route in the Khumbu Icefall. As our team members descended fixed lines and ladders efficiently and quickly spread at least 5 meters apart, we became "stuffed" by this team that was trying to ascend one of the vertical ladder sections in the Icefall. Unfortunately there was no other alternate route around and we were forced to wait until each one of their members ascended the ladder until we could descend. In most parts of the Khumbu Icefall, you can walk around someone that is moving slowly, but in this case it was like the Hillary Step, a one-person-at-a-time section.

There is one massive team that everyone is watching carefully. Seven Summit Treks is a Nepali company that has over 70 members on the Everest permit and over 85 Sherpa to support them. They have no western guides but rather rely on Sherpas to guide their climbers. Their camp is like a city, complete with a full bar & helicopter landing pad (I counted 6 landings today after we got to base camp). They have 5 dining tents for their members/clients and one kitchen tent devoted entirely to supplying their Sherpa staff with tea!

Fortunately since Mingmar Sherpa's death a few weeks ago there have been no other fatalities. However one Adventure Consultant's client fell in the icefall and broke her arm, ending the expedition for her and her husband. There have been other small 'falls' reported in the icefall but fortunately all climbers have been clipped into the fixed lines and have not suffered any serious injuries.

The Icefall route from Base Camp to Camp I is very direct and straightforward compared to recent years. Other than the brief section just above the football field the route seems very safe. This section involves climbing through ice debris and some sketchy towers that lean near the route. Above that the exposure to serac fall (icefall) from the west shoulder seems minimal, whereas last year the exposure seemed much greater (think lot of big blocks of hanging ice...)

Garrett Madison

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Related Topics: Climbing · Everest

January 28, 2013

Outside Television Adds New Shows, Expands Original Programming



By Inside Outside
Jan 28, 2013

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Outside Television, America’s only network for active outside enthusiasts, today detailed two new exclusive original series, The Final Cut: Outside’s Adventure Film School and EpicQuest, to bolster another aggressive expansion of original programming through the end of this year.

The Final Cut: Outside’s Adventure Film School will premiere early this spring, while new weekly hour-long adventure EpicQuest, featuring Alaska’s international expedition operators of the same name, anchors a late fall and early winter surge of still more new series. Those originals include the return of renowned producer Warren Miller Entertainment’s Season Pass, which has received a second-season renewal, plus at least two more original series from Red Bull Media House, which entered into a sweeping original programming alliance with Outside Television last June.

"Outside Television attracts some of the most passionate and active people on the planet who are constantly challenging themselves against the most exotic locales and dangerous natural elements," says Rob Faris, senior vice president of programming and production. "They demand a sense of immersion in all that we do, and while lush visuals and action are hallmarks of our network, we are equally as interested in creating compelling characters and multifaceted stories."

Continue reading "Outside Television Adds New Shows, Expands Original Programming" »


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January 26, 2013

Can Idle No More Save the Great Bear Rainforest?



By Adventure Ethics
Jan 26, 2013

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ProtestsPipeline protest. Photo: Dogwood Initiative

Amid an increasingly conservative Canadian government focused on exploiting the land's resources, the country's indigenous people have risen up through a grassroots protest movement called Idle No More.

The Idle No More protest movement was born in late 2012, started by four activists in Saskatchewan who wanted to garner support to rally against a wide-ranging bill, C-45, that would remove significant tribal authority over Canadian waterways by overhauling the country's 130-year-old Navigable Waters Protection Act. But the bill passed just before Christmas. Its passage has only stoked the movement, which is also galvanizing indigenous groups not only across Canada but those in the U.S. and South America, as well. Demonstrations linked to the movement have sprung up from California to Wisconsin to Maine.

Environmental justice is one of the major themes being addressed, and in British Columbia, protests are focused on Northern Gateway, a proposed pipeline that would run 730 miles, traversing the Rockies and Coast mountain ranges and hundreds of waterways before its terminus in British Columbia’s Great Bear Rainforest, one of the largest contiguous tracts of temperate rainforest left in the world.

While the press in the United States has not covered the protests a great deal, Idle No More is major news in Canada and the movement gained significant momentum via Twitter (which you'll see by searching #idlenomore). Idle No More protests, often taking the form of flash-mob style drum circles in shopping malls and other public areas, have been attracting thousands of participants and resulting in civil disobedience arrests.

While the links between Idle No More and the Northern Gateway protest movement are informal, they're part of a wider reaction among indigenous Canadians to an increasingly conservative government, says Chris Darimont, professor at University of Victoria Geography Department and science director for Raincoast Conservation.

Continue reading "Can Idle No More Save the Great Bear Rainforest?" »


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Related Topics: Politics · Surfing · Water Activities

Ragnar Puts the Team in Trail Running



By Raising Rippers
Jan 26, 2013

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Screen Shot 2013-01-25 at 2.22.28 PMNo more lonely trails. Photo: Courtesy of Ragnar

On January 22, the increasingly popular relay running series, Ragnar, announced that it is partnering with Salomon to launch the world’s first overnight trail running series. "For years we have dreamed of taking Ragnar to the trails and now it’s a reality," says Tanner Bell, who founded Ragnar Events a decade ago with a 200-mile team road race in Utah. Since then, the series has grown to 15 events in the U.S. and Canada, with nearly 100,000 racers competing last year.

The new two-day trail series will feature 120-mile courses and teams of four to eight runners. Unlike the road series, in which teammates who aren’t running drive by van to meet up with their runners at pre-determined transition points, Ragnar’s trail relays will consist of three loops run out of a central base camp à la traditional 24-hour mountain bike races. Not only does this alleviate the discomfort of cramping muscles during long car rides, but it also caters to parent runners who want to bring their kids to check out the action. Simply pitch a tent, set up a few chairs, and voila—front row seats to the race. (Kids must be at least 12 to enter.)

Continue reading "Ragnar Puts the Team in Trail Running" »


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Related Topics: Adventure · Endurance · Events · Family · Running


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